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866 viewsA complete chroming tank with heaters. The chrome tank is maintained at 130 deg. F. & is run at a current density of 3 amps/sq. in. The total current required for the brass holding fixture & the liner is 24 amps. The brass holding fixture prevents the buildup of chrome on the top & bottom of the liner. This build up takes place on the fixture & is removed afterwards with a warm 50% solution of HLC acid. At a current density of 3 amps/sq.in., .0012 in of chrome/side/hr. will be deposited. In 2 to 2.5 hrs, a total of .0024+ in of chrome should be deposited on the liner wall. If done properly, this simple bath will deposit smooth chrome with a hardness of 1,000 Vickers. Carbide tooling WILL NOT cut even 900 vickers chrome! Jim Allen
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570 viewsA Simpson DC amp meter & volt meter with all hook up wires plus on-off switch. I have two of these also to help speed up the chroming process.Jim Allen
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522 viewsAn Astec model LPS252 switching power supply. Output of 3 to 6 volts at 50 amps; +-2% regulation; 50mv ripple. I have two of these which allows me to load one tank while chroming in the other tank.Jim Allen
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501 viewsA chrome tank jar; a PVC fixture with anode; a vented PVC top & a split clamp ring. A shoulder machined on the bottom of the anode supports the PVC fixture. After placing the anode through the PVC top cover, a split clamp ring holds the fixture in place for the chroming process. The silicon insulated wires pass through the top cover to make electrical contact.Jim Allen
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566 viewsLeft to right; lead antimony anode with copper insert in the top for alligator clip contact; brass sleeve to hold the liner; PVC fixture to hold the sleeve & the liner to make electrical contact to the cathode. I use the basic chromic acid/sulfate bath. This bath is about 15% efficient, which means 85% of the electrical energy is wasted. The bath is slow but very reliable. The solution is easy to mix & will only require the addition of distilled water to maintain the bath.Jim Allen
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524 viewsA PVC holder showing the silicone coated fine strand copper wire which makes contact with the bottom of the brass sleeves lip. The top brass ring is held down by the PVC top cap which holds all parts firmly together.Jim Allen
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594 viewsTypical liner; brass sleeve with relief inside at window areas & top ring. It is necessary to relieve the brass sleeve in the areas where windows are located because these areas will become plated during liner plating. IF THE SLEEVE IS NOT RELIEVED, LINER REMOVAL WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE!Jim Allen
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587 viewsA brass sleeve & ring, which holds the liner sits inside the PVC holder. This sleeve makes electrical contact with the power cables & prevents chrome build up at the top & bottom of the liner. The brass sleeve is releived in the window areas to allow liner removal after chroming.Jim Allen
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673 viewsThis two part mold is used to cast the lead antomony anode. After casting, the anode is machined; then a machined copper plug is screwed to the top for the alligator clip contact area. The machined anode is located precisely in the center of the liner to give an even amount of chrome on all sides. The diameter of the anode is .750 when chrome plating a liner with a 1.127 ID. This large size anode places the anode close to the cathode (the liner) which makes the plate very straight.Jim Allen
 
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